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Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu; 8201m, is often regarded as one of the easier of the 8000m peaks! This fantastic mountain sits in Tibet and means “Torquoise Mountain” in Tibetan. Our expedition has the perfect ratio of climbing, acclimatisation and rest days to ensure the best chance of success. Coupled with a unique included physical training package and 3 training weekends to best prepare you for the expedition.

44 days
height 8201M
grade grade grade grade grade grade
price SALE - £24,995
Aug
2022
(+ 1 more date)

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All the World’s great journeys begin with one step” – Tibetan Proverb

Expedition Details:

Cho Oyu – means “Turquoise Mountain” in Tibetan and is the 6th highest mountain on Earth! Standing at 8,201m Cho Oyu is often cited as the easiest of all the 8000 metre peaks. located on the border of Tibet and Nepal, 30 miles west of Mt. Everest. It is part of the Greater Himalaya, where the central Asia plateau meets the Indian subcontinent.

The comparative ease of access, lack of objective dangers and generally uncomplicated terrain mean that Cho-Oyu will be the perfect introduction to high-altitude Himalayan climbing, and a highly rewarding experience, whether as your one-and-only 8,000m peak, or your first step towards Everest. The route above base camp consist mainly of low-angled snow slopes with one short but very steep section to bypass a serac barrier at 6,400m. We use three camps on the mountain, located at 6,400m, 7,000m, and the highest camp at 7,400m.

The Climb:

Our programme on Cho Oyu includes plenty of climbing, skills and rest days to ensure that you acclimatise and sleep well and feel confident for your summit climb. We will climb high and sleep low to aid acclimatisation as we establish a series of higher camps during our ascent. There will be a 3-day window for the summit attempt. All these factors greatly increase our chance for success.

You will need to carry your own equipment (up to 20kg) when you go up the mountain to sleep above base camp. On summit day you will carry a light sack, weighing about 4-6kg.

The Summit:

Summit day will be one of the most memorable days of your life.  It is one of the toughest climbing days due to the cold and high altitude. The climb on summit day starts from either Camp 2 or Camp 3. Above Camp 3 easy rock and snow ledges lead up to a short band of rock. The slope gradually eases to the summit plateau. An straightforward “plodding’ leads to the distant summit. From the summit you get an incredible view of Mount Everest in the distance. Summit day takes anywhere from 5-8 hours from Camp 3, and a couple of hours longer from Camp 2.

Experience Required:

Prior to being accepted on this expedition we will require a full breakdown of your climbing experience; this can be one through a phone call, in person, or via email. For an increased chance of success, and in the best interest of personal safety and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Our training programme will help you gain any additional training or experience needed. You will learn different skills including retrieving anchors, abseiling, glacier rescue and avalanche awareness, and gain knowledge of altitude sickness, frostbite and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention and treatment.
Prior to joining our expedition, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in high altitude and exotic locales.

Technical Experience:

Members should be able to:

– Carry loads of up to 20kg at altitude
– Experience of using crevasse rescue techniques
– Ability to be self-sufficient moving between camps and whilst at camps
– Use of fixed lines and equipment unsupervised
– Climb and have climbed routes of Alpine AD/ Scottish Winter III or above

Altitude Experience:

All climbers are required to have past high altitude mountaineering experience of minimum up to 6,000m. Climbers who have been successful on Ama Dablam, Denali or comparable peaks are typically prepared to join a guided ascent on Cho-Oyu.

Fitness:

Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We include a structured and personalised training programme with our partners Exped Performance to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude.

More Info

If you would like more information on this expedition you can download the full PDF trip details or drop us a line with your questions!

Once your’e signed up to the expedition you will be issued with a day-by-day itinerary. Below is an overview of our itinerary for the expedition.



Note. While we make every effort to stick to the planned itinerary it is crucial that participants understand that there are lots of changes and challenges which can be encountered whilst on expedition and a flexible approach and understanding is needed.

Operating on the Mountain:

Our Expedition is run as a small group, and the plan and aim is to summit together as a team. We will be working as tent teams in pairs, helping each other kit-wise and giving psychological support. Upon arrival in base camp, the group will get a detailed introduction to how the expedition will be operated. There will be plenty of time for discussion and questions. The expedition is the opportunity to put all the training into practice.

Rest days, Acclimatisation and Training:

A combination of rest days, acclimatisation days and training whilst on the mountain will ensure that you are physically and mentally on best form to operate effectively in high altitude conditions, and finally attempt the summit push. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams.

From our base camps along the mountain, we select suitable spots for training, where you familiarise yourself with and revise the techniques that you’ll need to use higher on the mountain. Skills development is an essential part of our programme, starting as early as possible before your expedition.

On our training days before and during the expedition, you will practice a long list of skills in different areas:

• Use of crampons and axes
• Fixed rope techniques (inc. jumaring, abseiling etc…)
• Medical equipment and procedures
• Communications equipment
• Camping techniques and high-altitude cooking

Team leaders are constantly assessing the conditions on the mountain to ensure a safe ascent, and you will have the opportunity to learn about hazards and weather formation yourself.

Acclimatisation will be achieved by ‘climbing high and sleeping low’, until everyone feels suitably adjusted to make the next move up to a higher camp. Finally, each climber will go back down to base camp for a prolonged rest, before moving up to occupy the higher camps, ready for the final push.

Altitude and Health:

Acclimatisation is a process which allows the body to adapt to an environment with reduced oxygen. The best way to acclimatise is to ascend slowly or to ascend to a higher level for a while, then to descend. An ideal scenario will combine these two techniques. All our trips are designed with a focus on safe and sensible acclimatisation. Nevertheless the speed at which a body adapts varies from individual to individual.

Expect changes to your body and habits to occur, including your muscles feeling tired more quickly, a change in your sleeping habits, increased gasping for breath, loss of appetite and generally requiring more energy to do basic things. Our guides are very experienced in identifying symptoms of altitude sickness and will always have alternative plans to aid further acclimatisation in the event that this may be required.

We use top of the range oxygen equipment on our ascent and the cost includes 2 Oxygen bottles per person face mask.

Group size:

The maximum group size on Cho Oyu 12 to 1 Exped Adventure Leader and Exped Adventure Doctor. From Base Camp onward you will benefit from the additional support of Porters and Climbing Sherpa. Higher up the mountain you will be allocated a Climbing Sherpa on a 1:1 basis.   Our guiding ratios and support team gives us flexibility during the climb for team members to move at different speeds and for the team to split, if it is safe to do so. All of our leaders and staff have considerable experience of climbing at high altitude.

Load carrying on the mountain:

The expedition is fully supported by porters who will carry personal and group equipment from BC to the higher camps. As a preparation for summit day, when you have to carry enough gear to sustain you on the climb, you will carry 15-20kg of supplies to leave at Camp 1, Camp 2 (and Camp 3). Our pre-expedition training courses will teach you all about equipment and how it is best broken down to be used at different stages. We will make sure that you pack lightly, taking only the essentials for the expeditions.

Safety:

Your expedition will be fully supported by experienced guides and Sherpa,  who will set safety parameters and have detailed knowledge of high-altitude mountaineering and its risks. This acknowledges that everyone on the team has a role to play in the safe outcome of the expedition, being mindful of risks and reducing them.

Equipment:

We aim to make sure that all the kit we use is to the highest standards. We are equipped with satellite telephones, high quality high altitude tents, high altitude stoves, full safety equipment. For most of our camps, we have comfortable, heated dining tents with tables and chairs, where our cooks prepare fresh food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day. We have toilet and shower facilities at BC as well as satellite internet available. Let us know about any food intolerance or allergies in advance and we will do our best to accommodate them.

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You will get to know your guides in person on the training course. Mark is the main guide on most expeditions, but he has teamed up with a handful of other guides who form part of the Exped team. All of our guides are capable and dedicated. They have the right attitude – both towards reaching the goal and towards their expedition teams. We strive for safety and mutual support in our teams, as well as having a bit of banter. All of us love adventure, but most of all we want to pass on our knowledge, share amazing experiences, and inspire others to be ambitious.

MARK WALKER

Mark is the director of Exped Adventure and the head guide on many of our expeditions. Mark is a highly experienced Expedition Leader and Mountaineering Instructor with over 20 years of mountaineering experience. Mark grew up in the English Lake District and has been climbing, running, walking in the mountains all over the world since he was a small child. He knows the Lake District, North Wales,Scotland and the Peak District like the back of his hand.

Mark has led a variety of expeditions to the far corners of the globe. He specialises in technical mountaineering and remote trekking expeditions. Mark grew up in the English Lake District and knows the area inside out.

Mark has put up new routes in the Lake District, Scotland, and Kenya. Climbing in all disciplines remains his passion.

Mark’s Expediton experience is broad and vast, including expeditions to Ethiopia, Malawi, Morocco, Jordan, Egypt, Israel, Peru, Kenya, Tanzania, India, Nepal, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Norway, Svalbard, Russia, and more.

Marks high altitude climbing experience includes; Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Kyajo Ri, Elbrus, Tharpa Chuli, Singu Chuli, Mont Blanc, The Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and much more!

Mark lives in Windermere in the Lake District with his young family.

Mark is a certified ML, WML, IML and MIA.

MATT STAPLEY

Matt is an experienced outdoor instructor and has been in the industry for 12 years. He has worked with clients all over the UK, Peru, and Europe and has mountaineering experience in America, North Africa and Western and Eastern Europe. Matt’s personal interests include multi-day mountain marathons, ultra marathons and triathlons.

Matt is a certified ML, WML and MIA.

RICH MAYWHORT

Rich has 30 years experience of climbing and mountaineering, with 15 of those years as a professional Mountaineer and Climbing instructor. He has climbed and led clients extensively over the breadth of the UK and in the Alps.

With climbing and mountaineering experience over Italy, Switzerland, France, Austria, Canada, Slovenia, Greece, random islands and North Africa.

GARY FLETCHER

Gary has been working as Group Captain and Training Expedition Leader in the Royal Air Force for 25 years before taking on his current freelance work as Outdoor Instructor. He has led numerous White Water Kayaking expeditions to the French Alps and New Zealand, as well as Sea Kayaking expeditions in Scotland. He has been on expeditions to the High Atlas Mountains and Nepal, including Gokyo Ri (5357m).

 

TRACEY WRIGHT

Tracey is a highly experienced International Mountain Leader and also holds the Mountain Instructor Certificate. She has Alpine experience on touring and cross country skis, including summits of Weismeis, Pigne d’Arolla, Grand Paradiso and Mt Leone. She has lead mountaineering expeditions to Mt Kenya, including ascent of Diamond Couloir, Kilimanjaro, Bolivian 6000m peaks and Mont Blanc. She has extensive personal snow and ice mountaineering experience in New Zealand, the Alps and Scotland.
Currently, she is working as a maths teacher at an International school of Aiglon College, Chesieres, Switzerland where she assists with the Outdoor Ed programme throughout the year.

Outdoor national qualifications British Assoc of Snowsport Instructors Alpine Level 2, Cross Country Ski Leader; Mountain Instructors Certificate (winter climbing instructor); International Mountain Leader.

 

Start Date End Date Days Price Availability
20th Aug 20222nd Oct 202244£24995

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19th Aug 20231st Oct 202344£24995

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What is included:
• Economy return flights from the UK to Kathmandu
• Return flight from Kathmandu/Lhasa
• In-country airport transfers and road transfers
• Guides, Sherpa, Porter and Yak fees
• Instruction and use of group equipment on training weekends
• Meals and accommodation:
– 3 nights B&B in Kathmandu
– 4 nights full-board in Lhasa
– 4 nights full-board en-route to and from Base Camp
– 31 nights full-board tents (twin sharing tents up to ABC and 1 person from ABC)
• Environmental fee per climber
• All permit fees
• Oxygen equipment (2 x Oxygen bottles and Summit Face mask per climber)
• Technical group climbing equipment
• Expedition Doctor and access to RMS (Remote Medical Support)
• Full group medical provisions
• Full personalised training programme with coach from Exped Performance
• 3 x training weekends prior to expedition (1 of which you will have the chance to meet your head sherpa)
• Flexible payment plan
• Exped Adventure kitbag

What is not included:
• Visa fees
• Personal climbing and trekking equipment
• Personal medical supplies
• All costs incurred and associated with leaving the expedition early
• Costs of arriving back in Kathmandu early (e.g. having climbed the mountain ahead of schedule)
• Personal spending (e.g. drinks, snacks, laundry, souvenirs, food in addition to what’s included)
• Travel insurance
• Trips and sightseeing outside the itinerary
• Tips for staff
• Airport taxes not paid in advance through international airline ticket
• Travel to and from UK airport
• Accommodation, food, and travel for training weekends

Booking – What happens next:
• The deposit reserves you a place on the trip. It is non-refundable according to our Booking Conditions. You will receive a confirmation of booking and further details about the trip.
• We will also supply you with more information on the training weekend and a complete equipment list.
• If you require a payment plan, get in touch with us as soon as possible so we can discuss the options.
• We will need you to fill in a Client Booking form for our records, regarding any health issues, your experience, insurance and next of kin details.
• The remaining balance will be set up on a payment plan). Any cancellations at this point are subject to our Booking Conditions.

Insurance:
You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Exped Adventure. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For advice on best policies get in touch.

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