Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam; 6866m, is arguably one of the most sort after peaks in the world! Referred to as “The Matterhorn of the Himalaya” and “The Jewel of the Khumbu, Ama Dablam is not to be missed! Our 30-day expedition gives a great acclimatisation profile, and our 2 included training weekends in the UK in Winter and Summer conditions as well as our bespoke physical training packages through our partners Exped Performance give you the best chance to complete this jaw-dropping mountain!

30 days
height 6812M
grade grade grade grade grade grade
price 5500
Nov
2020

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This is hands down one of the best things I have done in my life. The views from the mountain are indescribable.” – Mitch

Expedition Details:

Ama Dablam is often described as “the most beautiful mountain in the world” and for very good reason. The “Matterhorn of the Himalaya”  rises from the Khumbu valley, its main ridges reaching out from the valley floor and the iconic hanging glaciers towards the top. Not to mention the great technical challenge this mountain presents!

A climb of the southwest ridge is a hard feat, travelling up through a remarkable amount of diverse terrain. The green vegetation of Base Camp slowly loosens its grip as the trail gains the base of the ridge. Soon the world is filled with rock – clean, bullet hard rock. Camping on the ridge is a wild experience, the exposure and position are out of this world. Near where we camp, the snow and ice begin to take over. Crampons and ice tools come out and the route continues up.

Climbing the upper snow slopes of a mountain like this makes you gape at the exposure – it’s incredible. And then the top-out. Views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and countless other Himalayan giants fill the space.

 

The Climb:

Our programme on Ama Dablam includes plenty of climbing, skills and rest days to ensure that you acclimatise and sleep well and feel confident for your summit climb. We will climb high and sleep low to aid acclimatisation as we establish a series of higher camps during our ascent. There will be a 3-day window for the summit attempt. All these factors greatly increase our chance for success.

You will need to carry your own equipment (12-14kg) when you go up the mountain to sleep above base camp. On summit day you will carry a light sack, weighing about 4-6kg.

 

The Summit:

Summit day will be one of the most memorable days of your life.  It is one of the toughest climbing days due to the cold and high altitude. The most technical aspects of Ama Dablam have already been climbed on previous days. The climb on summit day starts from Camp 2.9 (C2.9) and heads to the high-hand side of the Dablam cross a snowfield and a bergschrund and continue to the ridge which leads us to the summit of Ama Dablam!

 

Experience Required:

With no easy route to its summit, climbing Ama Dablam is reserved for dedicated alpinists, who have built skills and experience in much more than simply high altitude walking. The successful climber will have solid multi-pitch climbing experience on rock and ice, and be comfortable climbing technical terrain with a pack on, taking care of themselves in very high alpine camps, and spending days at a time in exposed terrain.

 

Technical Experience:

Climbers should have experience multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), be comfortable following Scottish grade 4 winter climbs (WI3), British HVS (5.9) rock climbs, and have climbed at altitude (over 4,000m).

Altitude Experience:

It is required that climbers have prior experience at altitudes up to 4,000m and it is strongly recommended that climbers have prior experience at altitudes over 4,500m.

Fitness:

Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with our partners Exped Performance to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training and consider joining our Exped Training Programme.

More Info

If you would like more information on this expedition you can download the full PDF trip details or drop us a line with your questions!

























Operating on the Mountain:

Generally, our Expedition is run as a small group, and the plan and aim is to summit together as a team. We will be working as tent teams in pairs, helping each other kit-wise and giving psychological support. Upon arrival in base camp, the group will get a detailed introduction to how the expedition will be operated. There will be plenty of time for discussion and questions. The expedition is the opportunity to put all the training into practice.

Rest days, Acclimatisation and Training:

A combination of rest days, acclimatisation days and training whilst on the mountain will ensure that you are physically and mentally on best form to operate effectively in high altitude conditions, and finally attempt the summit push. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams.

From our base camps along the mountain, we select suitable spots for training, where you familiarise yourself with and revise the techniques that you’ll need to use higher on the mountain. Skills development is an essential part of our programme, starting as early as possible before your expedition.

On our training days before and during the expedition, you will practice a long list of skills in different areas:

• Use of crampons and axes
• Alpine climbing techniques (inc. jumaring, abseiling etc…)
• Medical equipment and procedures
• Communications equipment
• Camping techniques and high-altitude cooking

Team leaders are constantly assessing the conditions on the mountain to ensure a safe ascent, and you will have the opportunity to learn about hazards and weather formation yourself.

Acclimatisation will be achieved by ‘climbing high and sleeping low’, until everyone feels suitably adjusted to make the next move up to a higher camp. Finally, each climber will go back down to base camp for a prolonged rest, before moving up to occupy the higher camps, ready for the final push.

Altitude and Health:

Acclimatisation is a process which allows the body to adapt to an environment with reduced oxygen. The best way to acclimatise is to ascend slowly or to ascend to a higher level for a while, then to descend. An ideal scenario will combine these two techniques. All our trips are designed with a focus on safe and sensible acclimatisation. Nevertheless the speed at which a body adapts varies from individual to individual.

Expect changes to your body and habits to occur, including your muscles feeling tired more quickly, a change in your sleeping habits, increased gasping for breath, loss of appetite and generally requiring more energy to do basic things. Our guides are very experienced in identifying symptoms of altitude sickness and will always have alternative plans to aid further acclimatisation in the event that this may be required.

Group size:

The maximum guiding ratio on Ama Dablam is 1:3  an Exped Adventure Leader will be allocated to a group of maximum 9 people. From Lukla onward you will benefit from the additional support of Porters and Climbing Sherpa.  Our guiding ratios and support team gives us flexibility during the climb for team members to move at different speeds and for the team to split, if it is safe to do so. All of our leaders and staff have considerable experience of climbing at high altitude.

Load carrying on the mountain:

As a preparation for summit day, when you have to carry enough gear to sustain you on the climb, you will carry 10-12kg of supplies to leave at Camp 1 and Camp 2. Our pre-expedition training courses will teach you all about equipment and how it is best broken down to be used at different stages. We will make sure that you pack lightly, taking only the essentials for the expeditions.

 

Safety:

Your expedition will be fully supported by experienced guides who will set safety parameters and have detailed knowledge of high-altitude mountaineering and its risks. This acknowledges that everyone on the team has a role to play in the safe outcome of the expedition, being mindful of risks and reducing them.

 

Equipment:

We aim to make sure that all the kit we use is to the highest standards. We are equipped with satellite telephones, high quality Marmot high altitude tents, high altitude stoves, full safety equipment. For our base camps, we have comfortable, heated dining tents with tables and chairs, where our cooks prepare fresh food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day. We have toilet and shower facilities at BC as well as satellite internet available. Let us know about any food intolerance or allergies in advance and we will do our best to accommodate them.

 

ADD A REVIEW

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You will get to know your guides in person on the training course. Mark is the main guide on most expeditions, but he has teamed up with a handful of other guides who form part of the Exped team. All of our guides are capable and dedicated. They have the right attitude – both towards reaching the goal and towards their expedition teams. We strive for safety and mutual support in our teams, as well as having a bit of banter. All of us love adventure, but most of all we want to pass on our knowledge, share amazing experiences, and inspire others to be ambitious.

MARK WALKER

Mark is the director of Exped Adventure and the head guide on many of our expeditions. Mark is a highly experienced Expedition Leader and Mountaineering Instructor with over 20 years of mountaineering experience. Mark grew up in the English Lake District and has been climbing, running, walking in the mountains all over the world since he was a small child. He knows the Lake District, North Wales,Scotland and the Peak District like the back of his hand.

Mark has led a variety of expeditions to the far corners of the globe. He specialises in technical mountaineering and remote trekking expeditions. Mark grew up in the English Lake District and knows the area inside out.

Mark has put up new routes in the Lake District, Scotland, and Kenya. Climbing in all disciplines remains his passion.

Mark’s Expediton experience is broad and vast, including expeditions to Ethiopia, Malawi, Morocco, Jordan, Egypt, Israel, Peru, Kenya, Tanzania, India, Nepal, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Norway, Svalbard, Russia, and more.

Marks high altitude climbing experience includes; Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Kyajo Ri, Elbrus, Tharpa Chuli, Singu Chuli, Mont Blanc, The Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and much more!

Mark lives in Windermere in the Lake District with his young family.

Mark is a certified ML, WML, IML and MIA.

MATT STAPLEY

Matt is an experienced outdoor instructor and has been in the industry for 12 years. He has worked with clients all over the UK, Peru, and Europe and has mountaineering experience in America, North Africa and Western and Eastern Europe. Matt’s personal interests include multi-day mountain marathons, ultra marathons and triathlons.

Matt is a certified ML, WML and MIA.

RICH MAYWHORT

Rich has 30 years experience of climbing and mountaineering, with 15 of those years as a professional Mountaineer and Climbing instructor. He has climbed and led clients extensively over the breadth of the UK and in the Alps.

With climbing and mountaineering experience over Italy, Switzerland, France, Austria, Canada, Slovenia, Greece, random islands and North Africa.

GARY FLETCHER

Gary has been working as Group Captain and Training Expedition Leader in the Royal Air Force for 25 years before taking on his current freelance work as Outdoor Instructor. He has led numerous White Water Kayaking expeditions to the French Alps and New Zealand, as well as Sea Kayaking expeditions in Scotland. He has been on expeditions to the High Atlas Mountains and Nepal, including Gokyo Ri (5357m).

 

TRACEY WRIGHT

Tracey is a highly experienced International Mountain Leader and also holds the Mountain Instructor Certificate. She has Alpine experience on touring and cross country skis, including summits of Weismeis, Pigne d’Arolla, Grand Paradiso and Mt Leone. She has lead mountaineering expeditions to Mt Kenya, including ascent of Diamond Couloir, Kilimanjaro, Bolivian 6000m peaks and Mont Blanc. She has extensive personal snow and ice mountaineering experience in New Zealand, the Alps and Scotland.
Currently, she is working as a maths teacher at an International school of Aiglon College, Chesieres, Switzerland where she assists with the Outdoor Ed programme throughout the year.

Outdoor national qualifications British Assoc of Snowsport Instructors Alpine Level 2, Cross Country Ski Leader; Mountain Instructors Certificate (winter climbing instructor); International Mountain Leader.

 

Start DateEnd DateDaysPriceAvailability
1st Nov 202030th Nov 202030£5500

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What is included:
• Aconcagua Climbing Permit
• UK Expedition Leader
• In-country guides
• Mountain Porters to carry group equipment (tents/ stoves/ fuel) to the higher camps.
• Mules to carry your personal gear (except day sack) to base camp.
• All in-country transfers including airport transfer
• 3 nights’ hotel accommodation: 2 nights in Mendoza (bed and breakfast), one night in Los Penitentes (full-board).
• 17 nights’ sleeping in tents (full-board) – base camp or mountain camps.
• All road transport by private vehicles, as described in the itinerary.

What is not included:
• International flights • Visa – not required by UK Citizens.
• Lunch and/ or evening meals in Buenos Aires/ Santiago and Mendoza.
• Travel insurance.
• Porterage above base camp of personal clothing and equipment.
• Showers in base camp.
• Extra hotel nights needed in Mendoza by you as a result of you returning from the mountain ahead of schedule, for whatever reason.
• The cost of your walk-out from base camp and transport to Mendoza plus the porterage of your equipment by mule, if not trekking and travelling with the main expedition group (for example, should you leave early or be evacuated for medical reasons).
• Any medical costs incurred by you, or costs associated with a medical incident, such as your evacuation from the mountain and/ or hospitalisation (for which you should have travel insurance).
• Optional trips or excursions.
• Tips for local staff and guides.

Booking – What happens next:
• The deposit reserves you a place on the trip. It is non-refundable according to our Booking Conditions. You will receive a confirmation of booking and further details about the trip.
• We will also supply you with more information on the training weekend and a complete equipment list.
• If you require a payment plan, get in touch with us as soon as possible so we can discuss the options.
• We will need you to fill in a Client Booking form for our records, regarding any health issues, your experience, insurance and next of kin details.
• The remaining balance will be due 8 weeks prior to departure (unless you arranged a payment plan). Any cancellations at this point are subject to our Booking Conditions.

Bespoke option:
We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Insurance:
You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Exped Adventure. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For advice on best policies get in touch.

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